Travel another way

Over the weekend we were immersed in the medieval sights of Bruges in the Flemish north and the area surrounding the guest house in the French south.  On Monday, a visit to Bastogne and the Museum of the Battle of the Bulge brought us back to 20th century history.  The museum offered an interesting film presentation made up of actual newsreel footage (in English), and an audio tour of the exhibits discussing Patton, the military officers who played a role in breaking the German siege of Bastogne.  The allied victory pushed the German army from Belgium after years of occupation and led the end of World War II.  We also visited the Mardasson Memorial which was built on the site by the Belgian people to thank the American army and allies.  It is a beautiful building and starkly memorializes the six-week battle, which was the bloodiest in the war for U.S. forces, resulting in 19,000 dead and 83,000 casualties. 

We paused for lunch in Bastogne at a small cafe on McAuliffe Square, named for Gen. Anthony McAuliffe, whose pithy response — “Nuts” — to a German demand for surrender during the early days of the battle immediately entered popular history.  After lunch we drove to the cemetery in nearby Neupre where over 5,000 American soldiers who were killed in the Ardennes are interred.  The sun had come out and emphasized the beautiful landscaping of the spot.  The memorial building on the site was also very well done and fitting. 

But it was the afternoon’s visit with war survivor Germaine that most put the war in perspective for me.   When we arrived at her house, it immediately became apparent how Jac had managed to arrange our meeting:  Germaine is Jac’s mom!  She was a warm and friendly hostess, and spent time with us answering questions and sharing her memories of how life changed in her family’s small farming community near Bastogne after Germany occupied the country when she was six.  (For example, instruction in school was required to be in German and all the streets in town were renamed.)  In the weeks leading up to the battle, Germaine’s dad had to flee to avoid German conscription.  I was so impressed to hear how Germaine’s mother, Jac’s grandmother, managed to negotiate arrangements with the Germans who took over their farm house for a hospital, as Jac described above, and kept the family going.  Their farm was damaged but escaped the complete devastation (and many civilian casualties) that American artillery visited on much of the rest of the town before the hostilities were over. I couldn’t help but think Jac’s grandmother, who died at age 100, must have been made of pretty heroic stuff.  The fact that Germaine remembers little real privation or fear from that time is proof of that. 

Mary Anne H., Washington DC (second on the left, top row / Germaine is in the center, with the yellow shirt)

WWII is now far away and there are not many war survivors from the battle of the Bulge, which occurred during the winter of 1944- 19945 in the Belgian Ardennes.

But the city of Bastogne keeps vivid memories of these troubled times. I took my guests on a special WWII tour yesterday and they saw that Belgium was still very much affected by what had happened then.

As soon as we arrived in Bastogne, we saw a Sherman tank on the main plaza, with a statue representing General McAuliffe. At the Bastogne museum, we were able to see many artifacts from the period, but the highlight was  a documentary shot by the American army during the battle: it was extremely interesting. We then went to the American cemetery of Neupre where over 5,000 Americans are buried.  

We ended the day at Germaine’s house: she was 11 years old during the battle and had to live in the stable of his parents’ home for 6 weeks during the battle. The Germans had taken over the farm to settle their hospital. She offered us coffee and Belgian cakes while sharing her memories with us. It was very moving and informative.

The American cemetery, Neupre, Belgium, August 2008.

All of us, Diana, Mary Anne, Rose, Karen, Rima, Caryl and Barb in front of the Medieval Veves Castle, Ardennes, Belgium, 2008.

The same crowd (plus Valerie in the center, minus Caryl) enjoying Belgian beer in Dinant, Belgium, 2008.

Our first Belgian Escapade has started! With lots of delicious beer, chocolate and mussels  of course.

On our first day, we drove to the coast and stayed in Ostend, the Queen of the Belgian  beach resorts, by the North Sea. We had a fun dinner in a seafood restaurant on the boardwalk, where we enjoyed the view of a beautiful sunset. On the next day, we toured the amazing city of Brugge, the Venice of the North. Our day in this wonderfully preserved medieval town ended with a romantic canal cruise.

We are now staying in the Eastern part of the country, in the Ardennes. Today will be all about WWII and the famous battle of the Bulge.

We’ll keep you posted about it.

Here is a great picture of some of us taken at sunset in Ostend: Rima, Karen, Jac, Valerie and Mary Anne.

Yes, French “language”, not French athletes! They hardly ever prevail in any sports at the Olympics!

But indeed, French language is one of the 2 official Olympic languages (English being the other one), but it will prevail over English texts if any translation discrepancies were to happen, as it is stipulated in the 2007 Olympic charter.

Well, since it is almost the only thing we will be able to brag about, I do !!!

French language prevails because it is a Frenchman, Baron Pierre de Coubertin who revived the Olympic Games after the original Greek  ones stopped in the 4th century AD. The first new version began in 1896 in Athens, and the first winter version in 1924 in Chamonix (one of our destination on our tour to France with French Escapade).

Now, let’s talk 2008! Which sports can the French expect to get some medals? French secretary Roselyn Bachelot, in charge of sports, expects around 36 medals.

• Fencing is the sports where we usually get the most medals for.

           (Our topr atheletes: the Jeannet brothers, Laura Flessel)

• Swimming could give us 6 medals this time.

           (Our top athletes: Alain Bernard and Laure Manaudou)

• Judo is another event where we do not do too bad.

           ( Our top athlete: Teddy Riner )

• Kayaking could be a winner.

           (Our top athlete: Tony Estanguet)

As for track and field events, if we manage to get one medal, whatever metal it is made of, we will all be very surprised! But let’s knock on wood!

They are turning 50 this year, but they remain among the most popular characters in Belgian comic strips.  They were created by Belgian comic strip author, Peyo in 1958. They first appeared in “La flûte à six trous” (The flute with six wholes), in Spirou journal.

Their 50th birthday is being celebrated by comic strips lovers all over the world, but at the  Belgian Comic Strip Center, visitors will be invited to consider Peyo’s work from a new and original angle: it is because of their individual weaknesses that the Smurfs discover their strength…

You will be able to meet the Smurfs at the Belgian Comic Strip Museum in Brussels, through authentic documents lent by Peyo’s family. The exhibition will last until November 16th.

So hurry up and smurf to the museum or smurf their website at http://www.stripmuseum.be/en/home

During our new coming tour to Belgium in 2 weeks, our guests will be able to pay them a visit if they wish.

Picture from http://www.visitbelgium.com/mediaroom/Smurfs50Anniversary08.htm

Of course, if you have attended Feel French 101 by going on one of our tours, you know that first, you should eat cheese after dinner and not before, slice cheese according to its shape and most of all, drink your cafe in a bowl for breakfast and not in a cup or a mug.
Here are 5 tips to make you feel French when living America.
1. Throw away that Grey Poupon mustard that is everything but French and switch to Maille, which is available at any supermarket.
2. If you want to keep up on what is going on in France and if you know some French, watch the daily French news report that everybody watches in france at 8pm. Of course, you can watch it at any time on the web at
http://jt.france2.fr/20h/  
3. When you think cookies, think Le Petit Ecolier by LU, and even better, get Petit Beurre cookies, also by LU, and dip them in your cup of coffee. Divine!
4. All French people have a picnic knife, often including a bottle opener. Their favorite brands: Opinel, made in the French Alps, or Laguiole, made in Aveyron. This brand is more upscale.  
5. I know you are not going to like this one: do not drink wine outside meals !!!! One glass right before a meal is acceptable, as an aperitif … and ony if you add half an inch of Creme de cassis in it, to make a Kir!

 Here is the famous Laguiole knife!